Chain Saw Machine

Bar
The chainsaw bar is the most important part of the machine, and it is a metal bar which is also known as the guide bar. The chain will be at its place because of the bar, and it ensures a smooth and straight-cutting process. Chain bar length may vary from model to model.

Chain catcher
A chainsaw chain catcher is another important component of the tool which ensures the safety aspect of the chainsaw. It works as a guard design to seize the chain case and break during the working process. This component is important to secure you from any kind of serious injury if the chain breaks.

Chain brake
To handle the situation of sudden kickback, the role of the chain brake is very important to halt the saw from operating. Sometimes, the chain is squeezed and nicked and that’s why a chain break is required in this situation.

Engine
A chainsaw never starts and works for the cutting process without having an engine. Hence, the engine is the most important part of the chainsaw. The chainsaw may be electric or gasoline. Electric chainsaws also have engines, and these types of chainsaws are powered by electricity. On the other hand, gasoline or petrol chainsaws have engines.

Power button
The chainsaw power button is the major component of the machine, and you can see this part in the electric chainsaw. An electric power chainsaw can turn on and off with the use of a power button. You need to check the user manual on how to start a chainsaw.

Pull cord
Pull cord is important to turn the chainsaw and it has a small rope and plastic handle. Due to the easy-to-carry feature, it is comfortable to use. Not all chainsaws have this component but gas-powered chainsaws have this component.

Throttle interlock
To prevent a user from any accident when throttled, a throttle interlock is presented in the machine. You must press the throttle interlock before unlocking and turn-on the throttle. Throttle lock is available on the top of the rear handle.

Chain tensioner
A chainsaw tensioner is important to tight the guide bar chain and if it is tight properly then it is good for the higher efficiency of the chainsaw. The smooth and fine working process of a chainsaw chain depends on the chain tensioner.

Throttle
The speed of the chain depends on the throttle condition, and it controls the gas and gas-powered chainsaw combustion chamber. Adding more fuel means you can get more speed in the machine. On the other hand, an electric or battery-powered saw is also controlled by the throttle.

Handguard
The handguard works as a protector that keeps debris from hitting the operator’s hands while cutting. Also, it helps protect you from the chain’s top that spins.

We highly suggest never taking the hand guard off, and you shouldn’t use a chainsaw that doesn’t have it.

Anti-vibration system
The saw’s anti-vibration handle system makes it easier on the hands of the user to use the chainsaw. The chainsaw’s anti-vibration handle system absorbs vibrations from the chainsaw’s motor that would otherwise cause stress on your arms, hands, and joints.

Front and rear handle
The front handle goes around the engine’s front from underneath to the top of the motor. It’s designed to make it easy to hold and use the chainsaw.

On the other hand, on the back of the chainsaw is where the rear handle is. It’s where the throttle and safety lock for the throttle are. To use the chainsaw, you must put one hand on the handle in the back.

Scan your work area.
Familiarize yourself with your work area. Be aware of your “escape routes”—places you can safely move to once the tree begins to fall. Your tree could fall in an unexpected direction, so it’s best to be prepared for any possible scenario. Chainsaws are called “widow-makers” for good reason—they can be hazardous to operate. Be sure to have a plan and understand the terrain you’re working on.

Prep yourself and your saw.
Don all of your gear, from head to toe. Check your saw to ensure that the chain has good tension. If you can tug the chain up from the guide bar and disengage the chain links from the guide or the “nose,” it’s too loose. You’ll need to tighten the tension to prevent injury. Check your machine’s maintenance guide for instructions on tightening the chain. Most of the time, you’ll use the “scrench” (screwdriver/wrench) that comes with the machine. A properly tightened chain should give slightly when pulled but should not become disengaged from the guide.

File the depth gauges.
If you have a gas machine, check the gas levels and fill the tank before you start. With a two-cycle engine, the gas and oil will likely require mixing in the tank. Buy two-stroke oil and add it to the tank at the manufacturer’s recommended ratio (usually a ratio of 50:1, or about 2.6 ounces of oil to a gallon of gas). Fill the chain lube reservoir with chain oil.

Engage the chain brake.
Set your chainsaw flat on the ground, with the bottom down. Push the chain brake forward until it locks. The chain brake, which is usually a separate lever located between the top handle on the chainsaw and the blade, prevents the chain from spinning until you release the brake and apply the throttle.

Choke and prime the saw.
If you’re using a gas-powered saw and it has a choke, turn it on. If there’s a primer button, push it four to six times to pull gas into the carburetor, then turn the power switch on. If your chainsaw is electric, all you need to do is depress the safety switch and flip the power switch on.

Secure the saw and pull the starter handle.
Those with electric chainsaws can move on to Step 7. For those with gas chainsaws, put your right foot through the back handle and put your weight down on the handle to secure the saw. Use your left hand to hold the front handle firmly in place. With your right hand, pull the starter rope out sharply to its full length. It will usually take four or five pulls to start the engine. If the engine is “firing” but not engaging, adjust the choke by pulling it out halfway.

Brace yourself to make a cut.
Even after the engine has started, the chain won’t be turning. You’ll need to press the trigger or throttle to get the chain moving. First, position yourself properly with feet planted firmly and a strong grip on the saw. Always cut with the saw off to the side or angled away from you to minimize injury in the event of kickback.

Make your cut.
When you’re ready to cut, release the chain brake and fully engage the throttle. Lay the saw where you want to cut. Don’t apply pressure—the momentum of the chain and blade will draw the wood in. Never, ever force it. If you’re using a corded electric saw, always make sure you’re aware of the cord, and don’t let it get in your way.

Finish your cut.
Maintain a strong, steady grip and keep the throttle fully engaged for the duration of the cut. Release the throttle only after you have cut through or removed the blade from the cut (if you’re making carved-in cuts for tree felling).

Turn off the saw.
To power off the saw, simply switch it to “off.” Let the saw cool down before storing it.

1.When adding gas, make sure you blend the oil and gasoline as directed in the owner’s manual. Make sure they’re combined correctly before adding them to the chainsaw or the oil will sink to the bottom of the gas can.

2.Make sure you keep your chain sharp. If a chain goes dull, it can contribute to accidents or at the least burn you out as you grind away on logs. Simply put, a sharp chain does the cutting for you. If it’s not sharp, you’ll end up doing most of the work yourself. If the chainsaw is shooting out chunks of wood about a fourth of an inch across, it’s sharp. If nothing but sawdust is coming out, it’s time to either sharpen the chain or change it.

3.It’s normally recommended to have one or two extra sharp chains when cutting so you can change the one on the saw if it gets dull or if you hit a rock. If you want to sharpen the chain, it’s a good idea to take it to a professional.

4.Always keep the chain clean, tight and oiled. Before each use, check to make sure the chain fits snug against the bar while remaining loose enough to be moved with a gloved hand. Also, check the chain oil and fill the reservoir if needed. Don’t allow sawdust or wood chips to clog up the chain and always double-check the chain oil.

5.If your chainsaw seems to be losing power, it’s time to clean the air filter or replace it. A fuel filter is also a component that should be cleaned on a regular basis.

6.Always make sure you are double-checking the nuts, bolts and screws to make sure they are tight for top maintenance. Check spark plugs and the carburetor and regularly clean and adjust them. Also, be sure to check and replace hoses and starter rope when needed.

7.Keep an eye on the chain when the chainsaw is idling. If it is moving, it’s time to turn down the idle speed because this could lead to an unsafe condition.

8.During times of the year when you aren’t using your chainsaw, store away properly and drain all the fuel from the tank and lines. Take the chain off, store in a safe container filled with oil. Drain the oil from the chainsaw. And clean the entire saw.

The earliest patent for an "endless chain saw" (US patent 780,476) was granted to Samuel J. Bens of San Francisco on January 17, 1905, and filed roughly 18 months earlier in July 1903. Here's one of the diagrams from that patent, showing (from the side and from above) a huge, static sawing machine slicing through a tree trunk. Bens was mainly concerned with how the saw worked and didn't specify the power source, except to note that it was "furnished with driving power, such as a steam-engine, gas-engine, or motor of any kind." About 16 years later, in 1921, he filed another patent (US patent number 1,617,565) for a portable chain saw that "aims to provide a simple, compact, durable, and efficient machine capable of being easily handled by a couple of operators to rapidly and expeditiously cut logs or trees irrespective of the position, and one which can be readily conveyed from place to place." 

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